Yokohama’s Motomachi is a charming seaside neighborhood located east of the city center, close to Tokyo Bay. It’s a lively area, especially on weekends, with nearby Chinatown drawing in crowds. Tucked away in a corner of the main shopping street, you’ll find the quietly elegant bakery, O to U. I recently visited for the first time in a while.
“O to U” is pronounced "O to U" and means “front and back.” While I’ve never personally asked the owner, Masaharu Usui, for the story behind the name, it evokes a sense of philosophy, as if there's deeper meaning hidden within. I always find myself imagining layers of interpretation whenever I enjoy their bread.
O to U’s interior, with its muted gray walls and three glowing lights, feels cozy and inviting. The warm, soft lighting illuminates the carefully arranged bread display, while in the back, behind a glass partition, the kitchen is softly lit in contrast. Perhaps this contrast of brightness and shadows reflects the meaning behind the bakery’s name, “front and back.”
When you take a closer look at the bread on display, you can sense the attention to detail—whether it’s placing delicate pastries in plastic containers to keep their shape or wrapping scones in paper to keep them pristine, there’s a sense of care in every aspect.
O to U offers unique breads, like “Matcha and Cassis” or “Anko and Raspberry,” that combine unexpected ingredients. These unusual pairings, blending Japanese and Western flavors, seem to embody the “front and back” concept the chef subtly conveys.
O to U’s red bean paste and custard fillings tend to be lightly sweetened. However, the matcha anko stands out with a deeper sweetness. The rich matcha flavor spreads on the palate, harmonized with the subtle tang of cassis, creating a well-balanced bite.
The gentle sweetness of the anko meets the slight tartness of raspberries, and the buttery, flaky pastry brings it all together in a delightful blend of flavors. It’s a surprising combination, especially since sweet bean paste is rarely paired with tangy fruit, but this one is a true delight.
For many in Japan, white bread is a staple. Light and fluffy, the ideal loaf is one you can enjoy every day without getting tired of it. If you want to savor the simplicity of bread itself, O to U’s white bread is perfect for you.
O to U’s white bread has a chewy texture that almost makes you think it’s made with rice flour. The moist, tender crumb makes it delicious as-is, especially for sandwiches.
Aside from the white bread, O to U offers other equally delightful options.
This cream bread, resembling an egg tart in appearance, combines a buttery, flaky pastry with an irresistibly smooth custard filling. The custard isn’t too sweet, letting the flavor of the pastry shine through in perfect balance.
O to U’s cream bread, which looks like an egg tart.
The scones have a perfectly crisp bottom, while the top remains soft and tender, creating a lovely contrast in textures. They would pair wonderfully with your favorite jam or cream.
If someone asked me what I’d want for my last meal, I’d answer without hesitation: buttered toast (though I’d be tempted to mention egg over rice, too). There’s something about toast soaked in butter that’s simply unbeatable. I’d cut a cross into the bread, take a bite of the buttery center, add a bit of jam, and savor the mix of butter and jam. Add a sip of coffee, and that’s my idea of perfection. It may sound dramatic to call it my last meal, but that’s how much I love buttered toast.
To find O to U, stroll down the cobbled streets of Motomachi’s shopping district. Take a turn at the corner toward the Foreigners' Cemetery, and you’ll see the bakery’s calm, inviting presence. If you love bread, you won’t regret a visit. However, for the best experience, I recommend going on a Thursday or Friday morning (they’re closed Monday through Wednesday). If you go in the morning, you’ll have the best chance of finding the bread you’re after.
While Motomachi is lively on weekends, it’s much quieter on weekday mornings. An ideal way to enjoy the area is to head out early, buy some bread, and relax at a nearby café until the other shops open.